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BAMARZO |
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Twelve kilometres northeast of Bagnaia, the village of BOMARZO is
home to another Mannerist creation, the Parco dei Mostri (daily dawn-dusk;
L15,000/¬7.75; www.touring.it/bomarzo/index.html ) - and a greater
contrast to the former's restrained elegance would be hard to find. It's
still ostensibly a garden, but one look at the tangled wood and its huge,
completely crazed sculptures is enough to see that this is Mannerism
gone mad. Salvador Dali loved the surreal flavour of the place, even
making a film here, and its strange otherworldly qualities - like a
sixteenth-century theme park of fantasy and horror - have made it one of
northern Lazio's primary tourist attractions.
Built in 1552 by the hunchbacked Duke of Orsini, the Sacro Bosco or
"Sacred Wood", as he called it, set out to parody Mannerist
self-glorification by deliberate vulgarity. Knocking the intellectual
pretentions of the day through its mockery of idealized Arcadian
retreats from society and Art's supposed "triumph" over Nature, it still
retains the typically Mannerist calculated attempts at sensationalism.
Apparently built by Turkish prisoners captured at the Battle of Lepanto
(though this smacks of a Christian rationalization of the park's
"heretical" features), the park has an Etruscan influence too, manifest
in the plentiful urns and pine cones, and its madder moments are said to
have been induced by a popular epic of the time, Ariosto's Orlando
Furioso , a tale of lost sanity. The giant warrior at the entrance
tearing apart a woodcutter comes from the story, a symbol of Orlando's
madness, and deeper into the park an English prince pours Orlando's
brains down an elephant's trunk - another symbol apparently, this time
of the restoration of sanity. There are many other dank, mossy
sculptures of tortoises, elephants, a whale, a mad laughing mask,
dragons, nymphs, butterflies, and plenty of things you couldn't put a
name to. There's a perfect octagonal temple, dedicated to Orsini's wife,
and a crooked, slanting house that makes your head spin. Numerous
cryptic inscriptions all over the park only add to the mystery.
Eight buses a day run from Viterbo to Bomarzo, from where the Parco dei
Mostri is a signposted ten-minute walk. You can also get here by train -
the nearest station is Attigliano-Bomarzo, on the
Orte-Montefiascone-Viterbo link, but this is a five-kilometre walk from
the park.
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