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BOLOGNA |
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Emilia's capital, BOLOGNA , is a thriving city, whose light
engineering and hi-tech industries have brought conspicuous wealth to
the old brick palaces and porticoed streets and squares. Previously, it
was best known for its food - undeniably the richest in the country -
and for its politics. "Red Bologna" became the Italian Left's stronghold
and spiritual home, having evolved out of the resistance movement to
German occupation during World War II. Consequently, Bologna's train
station was singled out by fascist groups in 1980 for a bomb attack in
Italy's worst postwar terrorist atrocity. A glassed-in jagged gash in
the station wall commemorates the tragedy in which 84 people died.
After Venice, the city is one of the best looking in the country. The
city centre is startlingly medieval in plan, a jumble of red brick,
tiled roofs and balconies radiating out from the great central square of
Piazza Maggiore. There are enough monuments and curiosities for several
days' leisured exploration, but Bologna is really enjoyable just for
itself. Thanks to its university, which makes up one-fifth of the city's
population of 500,000, and an enlightened local government, there's
always something happening - be it theatre, music, the city's strong
summer festival, or just the café and bar scene, which is among northern
Italy's most convivial. The only problem is expense; nightlife,
particularly, can leave your wallet steamrolled, and finding a low-priced
place to stay can be very difficult, especially during one of the major
trade shows
The City
Bologna's city centre is quite compact, with most things of interest
within the main ring road. From the train station, Via dell'Indipendenza
leads into the centre; it is one of Bologna's main thoroughfares, lined
with cinemas and bars and always busy, finishing up at the linked
central squares of Piazza Maggiore and Piazza del Nettuno . To the right
of here lies the commercial district, bordered by office blocks along
Via G. Marconi, and to the left the university quarter. The one thing
you will notice quickly is how well preserved the central area actually
is, and although this can be frustrating, too - it's not unusual to find
notices on churches suggesting you return in a year's time - the reward
is a city centre that is a joy to stroll around. Above all you'll notice
the city's famous porticoes - ochre-coloured, vaulted colonnades lining
every street into the city centre that make a vivid first impression,
especially at night, and that by day provide an unofficial catwalk for
Bologna's well-turned-out residents. |
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