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CAMOGLI |
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CAMOGLI - 2km southeast of Recco - was the "saltiest, roughest, most
piratical little place", according to Dickens when he visited in 1884.
It's had its rough edges knocked off since then, but remains one of the
most attractive small resorts along this stretch of the coast, well
connected by road, rail and boat. The town's name, a contraction of Casa
Moglie (House of Wives), comes from the days when voyages lasted for
years and the women ran the port while the men were away. In its day,
Camogli supported a huge fleet of 700 vessels, which once saw off
Napoleon. The town declined in the age of steam, but the crumbling
arcades by the harbour and the dark flight of steps into the town centre
still have the "smell of fish, and seaweed, and old rope" that Dickens
relished.
The train station is just south of the beach; turn right towards the
centre for the small tourist office , 50m north at Via XX Settembre 33 (Mon-Sat
8.30am-noon & 3-7pm, Sun 9am-1pm; tel 0185.771.066). Summer boats
shuttle over from Genoa's Porto Antico in an hour (L10,000/5.16), using
the old harbour on the north side of town, separated from the
unimpressive pebble beach to the south by a promontory occupied by the
medieval Castello della Dragonara . You can wander up through the
alleyways to the castle, which nowadays is home to the rather humdrum
Acquario Tirrenico (Tues-Sun 10am-noon, also Fri-Sun afternoons: summer
3-7pm; winter 2-6pm; L4000/2.06), housing tanks full of marine life.
The best hotel is the lavish Cenobio dei Dogi , in its own waterfront
park at Via Cuneo 34 (tel 0185.7241, fax 0185.772.796;
L300,000-400,000/154.94-206.58); once the summer palace of Genoa's doges,
it boasts its own beach, pool, tennis courts, restaurants and tasteful
guest rooms. La Camogliese , Via Garibaldi 55 (tel 0185.771.402, fax
0185.774.024; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98), is a friendly spot
excellently situated by the water (take the steps down opposite the
station); it has pleasant rooms and they don't insist on full pension.
Otherwise, try the spartan Selene , Via Cuneo 15 (tel 0185.770.149, fax
0185.770.195; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48). The Camogliese hotel has a
quality mid-priced restaurant (closed Wed in winter). The much pricier
Vento Ariel on the harbourfront (tel 0185.771.080; closed Wed) serves
only fish brought that day directly from the nets into the kitchen. Away
from the sea, Don Riccardo on Salita Priaro (the flight of steps up from
the fishing harbour), does affordable Mexican food, and Revello is a
fine bakery at Via Garibaldi 183.
Fish aside, Camogli makes its living from ferries operated by Golfo
Paradiso, Via Scalo 3 (tel 0185.772.091, www.golfoparadiso.it ).
Departures to tranquil Punta Chiappa , ideal for a spot of swimming and
basking in the sun, and San Fruttuoso , are most frequent (May-Sept at
least hourly; Oct-April 3 weekdays, hourly at weekends; around
L8000/4.13), with a special night excursion offering the most romantic
views of the gulf plus 3hr in San Fruttuoso for dinner or a stroll (July
& Aug 3-5 weekly; L16,000/8.26). There are also boats east to the Cinque
Terre (June-Sept 3-4 weekly; L20,000/10.32), which stop beforehand at
Portofino and continue to Portovénere , as well as plenty more west to
Recco and Genoa (L10,000/5.16).
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