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CAMPOBASSO

 
 
 
Home of a top-security prison and the National Carabinieri School, CAMPOBASSO , the regional capital, is about as appealing as you'd expect - a modern, rather faceless town that was once known for its cutlery industry. It's a good base, though, for the remarkable ruins at Saepinum , and if you're around in early June, its Corpus Christi Sagra dei Misteri procession is a spectacular event. Citizens are dressed as saints, angels and devils, inserted into fantastical contraptions and transported, seemingly suspended in midair, through the streets.

At any other time of the year the most notable attraction is the new Samnite Museum (summer daily 8.30am-7.30pm; winter Tues-Sun 9am-1pm & 3-7pm; free; tel 0874.412.265) at Via Chiarizia 12, with statues and archeological finds from the area. Steep alleys of the small, old upper town lead up to a couple of Romanesque churches - San Bartolomeo , which has eerily contorted figures carved around its main door, and San Giorgio , whose entrance displays a dragon surrounded by stylized flowers. The views at least are extensive, though they consist mostly of Campobasso's suburban sprawl. And there's little point carrying on up the hill to the monastery and sixteenth-century castle: the monastery is modern, and the castle now a weather station.

Should you need to sleep over, the nicest, most central hotel is the Skandeberg , near the station and museum at Via Novelli 31 (tel 0874.413.341; L120,000-150,000/61.98-77.47), or there's the Tricolore , outside the centre on the road to Térmoli (tel 0874.63.190; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48). The tourist office (Mon-Sat 8.30am-1.30pm; tel 0874.415.662) on Piazza Vittoria in the new town has details of local events and bus routes to elsewhere in the province.
 
 
 
 
 

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