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CHIAVARI |
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Most of the 9km train journey from Rapallo east to CHIÁVARI is
through tunnels, so for an idea of the scenery you need to dawdle on bus
#9, which follows the mad coast road around several headlands. Some of
the villas and gardens are spectacular, surrounded by wisteria, fig
trees and mini olive groves. The overriding attraction, however, is the
sea, brilliant turquoise coves appearing as the bus takes another bend;
you can stop off at any of the signs that point al mare - though you
probably won't be alone when you get there.
Chiávari, itself, however, by contrast, sits on a flat, featureless bit
of coastline. Called Clavarium ("Keys") by the Romans for the access it
gave them to the inland valleys, it's still a good starting-point for
trips into the mountains and has a characterful, untouristed old
quarter. Boats shuttle all summer long west to Rapallo and east to the
Cinque Terre , and the bus and train stations are beside each other in
the town centre, forming a barrier between the seafront to the south and
the large public gardens of Piazza Nostra Signora dell'Orto to the
north. The tourist office is opposite the station at Corso Assarotti 1
(Mon-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm, Sun 9.30am-12.30pm; tel
0185.325.198, www.apttigullio.liguria.it ). Wander through the piazza,
with its ochre cathedral , into the peaceful old quarter of medieval
arcades lined with food shops and outlets for macramé, a craft brought
back from the Middle East by local sailors. The pretty main square,
Piazza Mazzini , hosts a thriving market each morning. East along Via
Martiri is Piazza Matteotti and the crumbling seventeenth-century
Palazzo Rocca, now home to the Civica Galleria (Sat & Sun 10am-noon &
4-7pm; free), displaying paintings by Genoese artists. Next door in the
same palazzo is the more engaging Museo Archeologico (Tues-Sat
9am-1.30pm, also second & fourth Sun of month 9am-1.30pm; free), with
finds from a nearby seventh- to eighth-century necropolis.
The Dell'Orto is a comfortable three-star hotel beside the cathedral at
Piazza N.S. dell'Orto 3 (tel 0185.322.356, fax 0185.322.215;
L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), although you may prefer the peace and
quiet to be found at the plusher Monterosa , at the north edge of the
old town arcades, Via Marinetti 6 (tel 0185.300.321, fax 0185.312.868,
www.gattei.it/monterosa ; L120,000-150,000/¬61.98-77.47). The cheapest
option is Villa Le Rose , west of the centre at Salita Bacezza 13 (tel
0185.303.493; up to L60,000/¬30.99). The Al Mare campsite is at Via
Preli 30 (tel & fax 0185.304.633). There are lots of pleasant eateries
on the old town squares. Da Vittorio, just north of Piazza Mazzini
(closed Thurs), is a workers' café serving tasty local dishes, while
Cantine Reggiana , under the old town arcades at Via Martiri di
Liberazione 27 (closed Mon) does a delicious minestrone alla genovese.
Ideal Bar , Piazza N.S. dell'Orto 31 (closed Sun), has Internet access.
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