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CIVITAVECCHIA |
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The only reasons to break a journey in CIVITAVECCHIA , 30km north,
are to change trains or to pick up a ferry to Sardinia ; try to take a
night crossing to save yourself the dubious pleasure of spending a night
in town. The tourist office sells tickets, but you can book ahead (essential
in the summer months) from many travel agents both in the town and in
other parts of Italy. Otherwise, Civitavecchia is an ugly and
forgettable port that's best avoided, with little to see beyond a small
Museo Archeologico right in the centre of town on the corner of Largo
Plebiscito, just off Viale Garibaldi (Tues-Sun 9am-7pm; free).
The ferry docks (closed Mon) are in the centre of the town at the end of
Viale Garibaldi, ten minutes' walk from the train station. There's a
tourist office between the two at Viale Garibaldi 40 (Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
4.30-7pm; tel 0766.25.348). Should you get stuck, however, there are two
functional hotels , the modern Medusa (tel 0766.24.327;
L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98), near the 68,300km marker on Via Aurelia,
which has nice, clean rooms, and the somewhat sleazy Traghetto (tel
0766.25.920; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98), on Via Braccianese Claudia -
passable if you're just overnighting on the way to Sardinia. As for
eating , there are lots of cheap trattorias and pizzerias along the
seafront Viale Garibaldi, and there's not much to choose between them -
the Santa Lucia , Viale Garibaldi 38 (closed Wed in winter), close by
the tourist office, does decent pizzas. Trattoria Sora Maria , just back
from the water, off Largo Plebiscito on Via Zara (closed Fri in winter),
is a nice place that's good for fish.
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