CORNIGLIA

 
 
 
CORNIGLIA is the smallest of the five Cinque Terre villages, and also the most remote: the village clings to a high cliff 90m above the sea, and its only access to the water (and the train station) is via a long flight of steps. Floral-decorated squares fill the village, and the little Gothic church of San Pietro boasts an exquisite marble rose window. There are no hotels, but plenty of places offering rooms , and a handful of unremarkable eateries. Oddly for a hilltop village, Corniglia stands out for its beaches . On the southern side of the village's rocky promontory is the Spiaggone di Corniglia , a narrow stretch of pebbles that has relatively easy access from the footpath towards Manarola. Here you'll find the Villaggio Marino Europa (tel 0187.812.279; April-Sept) - a campsite and set of spartan bungalows sleeping up to six (L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98).

The Cinque Terre's best beach is the wild and tranquil Spiaggia di Guvano , on the northern side of Corniglia's promontory. Follow the signs from the north side of the train station, which will lead you to a disused rail tunnel with an entryphone: ask for the spiaggia , and you'll be buzzed through the gate for a long walk through the tunnel (a kilometre or more) to the beach itself, where you must pay L5000/¬2.58 admission. Once there, the attractions of warm, clear water, lovely scenery and relative peace and quiet might persuade you to throw off your social bonds - this is one of the few beaches in Liguria to permit nudity (although bear in mind that you are overlooked by walkers on the footpath to Vernazza).