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COURMAYEUR |
| COURMAYEUR is the smartest and most popular of Valle d'Aosta's ski
resorts, much used by package-tour operators. The skiing is good, though
there's little to challenge experts, and the scenery is magnificent, but,
predictably, what remains of the old village is enmeshed in a web of
ersatz Alpine chalets and après-ski hangouts. If you simply want a week of skiing, you'll probably do better to take a package; if you've come to hike or take the big-dipping cable cars across to Chamonix, the most convenient place to stay is LA PALUD , 5km outside Courmayeur (three buses a day). The cable car runs from La Palud to Punta Helbronner all year round, but continues to Chamonix only between April and September. There are between ten and twelve departures a day, depending on the time of year, roughly hourly starting at 8.30am - although ultimately the regularity depends on the weather. To be sure of good views, you'll need to set out early since it's usually cloudy by midday; be sure also to get there in plenty of time, especially on summer weekends, as it's much used by summer skiers. Even if it's blazing hot in the valley, the temperature plunges to freezing-point at the top, so take some warm clothes. There are good walks along the two valleys at the foot of the Mont Blanc glaciers, both of which have seasonal campsites accessible by bus from Courmayeur. Val Ferret to the west is the more interesting option - you can walk back from Frebouze over Monte de la Saxe, with some stunning views of Mont Blanc en route. If you do end up having to spend a night in Courmayeur, the cheapest hotel is the Venezia at Via delle Villette 2 (tel 0165.842.461; up to L60,000/30.99); or there's the Crampon , on the same street at no. 8 (tel 0165.842.385; L150,000-200,000/77.47-103.29; Christmas-April & July to mid-Sept), which also has a restaurant . Hotels in La Palud include the Chalet Joli (tel 0165.869.722; L120,000-150,000/61.98-77.47) and the extremely comfortable Vallee Blanche (tel 0165.89.7002; L120,000-150,000/61.98-77.47). |