Dorgali and Cala Gonone
 
 
 
Centre of the renowned Cannonau wine-growing region, DORGALI attracts a lot of tourists in summer, both for its craftwork and on account of the recent growth of Cala Gonone, a small port 10km away. Dorgali's restaurants and hotels are generally cheaper than its neighbour's: try the San Pietro (tel 0784.96.142; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48) for bargain lodgings.

CALA GONONE is reached by going south out of town and turning left into the tunnel that brings you through the rock wall, from which the road plunges down to the bay. Beautifully sited at the base of the 900-metre-high mountains, this once tiny settlement was until recently accessible only by boat. Now hotels and villas dominate the scene, though these have not entirely spoilt the sense of isolation, and it is worth a visit if only to take advantage of the numerous boat tours to the secluded coves up and down the coast. Among the best are Cala Luna and Cala Sisine , though if you are here for a short time you would do well to choose a tour that combines pauses at these swimming stops with exploration of the deep grottoes that pit the shore.

Most famous of these is the Grotta del Bue Marino - one of the last refuges of the Mediterranean monk seal, or "sea ox", in Italian waters, before the last colony moved on, probably at about the same time that the tourists moved in. It's a good expedition, anyway, since this is among Sardinia's most spectacular caves, a luminescent gallery filled with remarkable natural sculptures, resembling organ pipes, wedding cakes and even human heads - one of them is known as Dante , after a fondly imagined resemblance to the poet. Boat trips from Cala Gonone cost around L10,000/¬5.17, and entry to the cave is about the same.

There's no lack of hotels in Cala Gonone. Near the port and beaches are the lively, bougainvillea-covered Cala Luna (April-Oct; tel 0784.93.133; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), with direct access to the beach; the Píccolo (tel 0784.93.232; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), a fairly plain place that's open year-round, just up the hill from the harbour, and La Conchiglia (tel 0784.93.448; L120,000-150,000/¬61.98-77.47; March to mid-Oct), smaller and smarter, and also with seafront views. There's a wide choice of places to eat , ranging from fast food to gourmet parlours (though mostly closed in winter). In the latter category, the restaurant attached to the Miramare hotel, on Piazza Giardini, is rated highly for its fish dishes (closed Oct-April), while Il Faro , just beyond on Via Dándolo, is a more relaxed place for pizzas and seafood. The restaurant at the Pop hotel on Via Marco Polo is cheap and boisterous.