ferno and porto san giorgio

 
 
 
Southeast of Macerata, a short distance from the coast, is the attractive old town of FERMO . Its web of streets is lined with medieval and Renaissance buildings, erupting out of which is a wooded peak crowned with a Romanesque-Gothic duomo. The town's most spectacular monument, however, is hidden from view - a first-century underground complex of thirty filter beds known as the Piscina Epuratoria Romana , originally designed to supply the Roman Imperial fleet with fresh water when it docked at the nearby port. Entered from Via Aceti, off the main Piazza del Popolo, it's something akin to a flooded cathedral, with its well-preserved vault and arches subtly lit and reflected in the dark, still water.

From Fermo a road descends to the resort of PORTO SAN GIORGIO , with a small fishing and sailing port and a long sandy beach. Its palms, pines and oleanders, and its sprinkling of Art Deco villas, make it a pleasant enough place, though the modern seafront is predictably bland. The best day to visit is on the second Sunday in July, for the Festa del Mare , when fish are fried in the open air in a giant frying pan - 5m across, it weighs 10,000 pounds and needs 3310 litres of oil to fill it.