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fiascherino |
| The quiet 5km stretch of coast, accessible by bus or on foot, south
to Tellaro seems to belong to another world, far from both La Spezia's
bustle and Lérici's monied exclusivity: the water is improbably clear
here and the many coves and inlets are irresistible places to bask.
Partway along the road, signs direct you to a path down to a spiaggia
libera , or public beach, an expanse of shingle and sand surrounded by
wooded slopes. The next inlet south is sparklingly clear FIASCHERINO ,
accessible along Via D.H. Lawrence. One of the most pleasant campsites
on the Riviera is here - take the steps inland from the car park, and
turn right for Campeggio Gianna (tel & fax 0187.966.411; April-Sept),
set on a terraced and shaded hillside. Ten minutes' walk south of Fiascherino is the quiet fishing village of TELLARO , comparatively untouched by tourism, with stone houses packed tightly on the spur of rock over the slipway, and alleyways stalked by cats. The road ends in a cluster of bars and a couple of places to stay . If money is tight head for Delle Ondine (tel 0187.965.131; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48), in a lovely location, but otherwise make sure you've booked ahead to stay at Miranda (tel 0187.968.130, fax 0187.964.032; L150,000-200,000/¬77.47-103.29), a delightful little family-run inn with just seven en suite rooms; half-pension here is no hardship, since the pricey restaurant has won a reputation that extends well beyond Liguria's borders for its innovative and stylish presentation of fish and seafood. The mixing of flavours and ideas that goes on in this small kitchen makes Tellaro well worth a gastronomic detour. |