| The easiest way of travelling around Italy is by train. The Italian
train system is one of the least expensive in Europe, reasonably
comprehensive, and, in the north of the country at least, very efficient
- and is far preferable over long distances to the fragmented, localized
and sometimes grindingly slow bus service. Local buses, though, can be
very efficient, and where it is actually a better idea to take a bus
we've said as much in the text. Planes are expensive and are best
reserved for longer journeys where time is tight. Ferries ply to all the
Italian islands, and also serve international routes to Greece, Albania,
Croatia, Malta, Yugoslavia, Corsica and Tunisia . We've detailed train,
bus and ferry frequencies in the "Travel Details" section at the end of
each section of the Guide: note that these refer to regular working-day
schedules, (ie Monday to Saturday); services may be much reduced or even
non-existent on Sundays.
Trains
Operated by Italian State Railways (Ferrovie dello Stato, or FS), there
are seven types of train in Italy. At the top of the range are the "
Pendolino " (CiS) and "Eurostar Italia" (ES), an Intercity service; in
first class your ticket includes newspapers and a meal; reservations are
included in the ticket price. Eurocity trains connect the major Italian
cities with centres such as Paris, Vienna, Hamburg and Barcelona, while
Intercity trains link the major Italian centres; reservations are
advised on both of these services (and are sometimes compulsory anyway)
and a supplement in the region of thirty percent of the ordinary fare is
payable. (Make sure you pay your supplement before getting on board;
otherwise you'll have to cough up a far bigger surcharge to the
conductor.) Diretto, Espresso and Interregionale trains are the common-or-garden
long-distance expresses, calling only at larger stations; and lastly
there are the Regionale services, which stop at every place with a
population higher than zero (and on which smoking is not allowed). For
information on trains call 1478.88.088, or visit the useful Web site at
www.fs-on-line.com .
In addition to the routes operated by FS, there are a number of
privately run lines, using separate stations though charging similar
fares. Where they're worth using, these are detailed in the text.
Buses
Trains don't go everywhere and sooner or later you'll have to use
regional buses ( autobus ). Almost everywhere is connected by some kind
of bus service, but in out-of-the-way places schedules can be sketchy
and are drastically reduced - sometimes non-existent - at weekends,
especially on Sundays, something you need to watch out for on the
timetable. Bear in mind also that in rural areas schedules are often
designed with the working and/or school day in mind - meaning a
frighteningly early start if you want to catch that day's one bus out of
town, and occasionally a complete absence of services during school
holidays.
There isn't a national bus company, although a few companies do operate
services beyond their own immediate area. Bus terminals can be anywhere
in larger towns, though often they're sensibly placed next door to the
train station; wherever possible we've detailed their whereabouts in the
text, but if you're not sure ask for directions to the autostazione . In
smaller towns and villages, most buses pull in at the central piazza.
Timetables are worth picking up if you can find one, from the local
company's office, bus stations or on the bus. Buy tickets immediately
before you travel from the bus station ticket office, or on the bus
itself; on longer hauls you can try to buy them in advance direct from
the bus company, but seat reservations are not normally possible. If you
want to get off, ask posso scéndere?; "the next stop" is la próssima
fermata .
City buses are always cheap, usually costing a flat fare of between
£1000/¬0.52 and £2000/¬1.03; it's normally a bit cheaper down south.
Invariably you need a ticket before you get on the bus and once you've
bought your ticket it is only valid for about an hour; within that time,
however, you can use it on as many journeys as you like. Tickets are
available from a variety of sources, commonly newsagents and
tobacconists, but also from any shop displaying the biglietti symbol,
including many campsite shops and hotel front desks. Once on board, you
must cancel your ticket in the machine at the back of the bus. The whole
system is based on trust, though in most cities checks for fare-dodging
are regularly made, and hefty spot-fines are levied against offenders.
Planes
ATI, the domestic arm of Alitalia, operate flights all over Italy.
However, it's only worth taking a plane within Italy if you want to
cover a large distance quickly: ordinary prices are quite high, pricier
than even the most expensive express train.
As an example of ordinary one-way fares, Venice-Rome will cost from
around £250,000/¬129.11, Milan-Naples about £300,000/¬154.94, though a
limited number of cheaper seats are available on each flight, these tend
to sell out fairly quickly on popular routes. If you book a flight from
London to Italy with Alitalia you qualify for their Visit Italy Pass ,
which gives you three internal flights for £80 - a bargain if you're
making long hops from north to south.
Ferries and hydrofoils
Italy has a well-developed network of ferries and hydrofoils operated by
a number of different private companies. Large car ferries connect the
major islands of Sardinia and Sicily with the mainland ports of Genoa,
Livorno, La Spezia, Civitavecchia, Fiumicino and Naples, while the
smaller island groupings - the Tremiti islands, the Bay of Naples
islands, the Pontine islands - are usually linked to a number of nearby
mainland towns. Fares are reasonable, although on some of the more
popular services - to Sardinia, certainly - you should book well in
advance in summer, especially if you're taking a vehicle across.
Remember, too, that frequencies are drastically reduced outside the
summer months, and some services stop altogether. You'll find a broad
guide to journey times and frequencies in the "Travel Details" sections
throughout the guide; for full up-to-date schedules, and prices, contact
the local tourist office.
Driving
Travelling by car in Italy is relatively painless, though cities can be
hard work. The roads are good, the motorway, or autostrada network very
comprehensive, and the notorious Italian drivers rather less erratic
than their reputation suggests - though their regard for the rules of
the road is sometimes lax to say the least. The best plan is to avoid
driving in cities as much as possible; the congestion, proliferation of
complex one-way systems and occasional incidents of naked aggression can
make it a nightmare.
Parking is very often a headache too. If you get fed up of driving
around and settle for a space in a zona di rimozione (tow-away zone),
don't expect your car to be there. A handy gadget to have is a small
clock-like dial which you set and stick in the windscreen, to indicate
when you parked and that you're still within the allowed limit: rental
cars generally come equipped with these, and some tourist offices have
them too. Parking at night is easier than during the day, but make sure
you are not parked in a street that turns into a market in the morning.
Increasing numbers of cities operate a colour-coded parking scheme: blue
zone parking spaces (delineated by a blue line) usually have a maximum
stay of one or two hours; they cost around £1000-1500/0.52-0.78 per hour
(pay at meters or to attendants) but are sometimes free between 1 and
3pm and on Sundays. White-zone spaces (white lines) are free and
unlimited in some cities, but reserved for residents in other cities;
yellow-zone spaces are almost always reserved for residents. Note that
walled towns which exclude cars often allow tourists to drive into the
city to drop off baggage at a hotel. Car parks, often small enclosed
garages, are universally expensive, costing £25,000-35,000/12.91-18.08 a
day in big cities; be aware that it's not unknown for hotels to state
that they have parking and then direct you to the nearest paying garage.
Most motorways are toll-roads . Take a ticket as you come on and pay on
exit; in automatic booths the amount due is flashed up on a screen in
front of you. Major credit cards are accepted; follow the "Viacard" sign.
Rates aren't especially high but they can mount up on a long journey: as
a general rule, you'll pay around £35,000/8.08 driving a small car from
Rome to Florence. Since other roads can be frustratingly slow, tolls are
well worth it over long distances. Petrol per litre costs around
£2200/1.12 for four-star and £2100/1.08 for unleaded; for unleaded
petrol, look for the sign "Senza Piombo".
As regards documentation , if you're bringing your own car you need a
valid driving licence plus an international green card of insurance, and
an international driving permit if you're a non-EU licence holder. In
Australia these are available from state motoring organization offices
in major towns and cities; in New Zealand contact your local Automobile
Association office. In North America get in touch with the American
Automobile Association ( www.aaa.com ), the Canadian Automobile
Association ( www.caa.ca ), or your local branch for details of the
procedure. It's compulsory to carry your car documents and passport
while you're driving, and you may be required to present them if stopped
by the police - not an uncommon occurrence.
Rules of the road are straightforward: drive on the right; at junctions,
where there's any ambiguity, give precedence to vehicles coming from the
right; observe the speed limits - 50kph in built-up areas, 110kph on
country roads, 130kph on motorways (for camper vans, these limits are
reduced to 50kph, 80kph and 100kph respectively); and don't drink and
drive. Roundabouts can be tricky until you get the hang of them as cars
entering the larger ones have right of way, unlike smaller ones, on
which you give way to the right.
If you break down , dial 116 at the nearest phone and tell the operator
where you are, the type of car and your registration number: the nearest
office of the Automobile Club d'Italia (ACI), Via Marsala 8, 00185 Rome
(tel 803.116 for 24hr assistance), the Italian national motoring
organization, will be informed and they'll send someone out to fix your
car - although it's not a free service and can work out very expensive
if you need a tow. For peace of mind, you might prefer to join the ACI
outright, and so qualify for their discounted repairs scheme (alternatively
it might be easier to arrange cover with a motoring organization in your
home country before you leave). Any ACI office in Italy can tell you
where to get spare parts for your particular car.
Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking ( autostop ) is moderately possible in Italy, especially in
the north, but as elsewhere in Europe, is generally inadvisable. If
you're determined, remember that hitching on motorways is illegal,
eliciting an on-the-spot fine; stand on a slip-road or at one of the
service areas. Bear in mind also that you should never hitch alone -
this applies particularly to women in the south. Always ask where the
car is headed ( Dov'è diretto? ) before you commit yourself, and if you
want to get out say Mi fa scéndere .
Cycling and motorbiking
Cycling is seen as more of a sport than a way of getting around in much
of Italy, but as well as racing clubs on the move you'll see mountain
bikes, touring cycles laden with panniers, and people of all ages on
shopping bikes, often with a toddler balanced on the cross-bar. Italians
in small towns and villages are welcoming to cyclists, and hotels and
hostels will take your bike in overnight for safekeeping. Although
there's usually a good cycle shop in most small towns, tyres and wheels
for touring bikes (700mm x 28 or 30mm) are hard to come by. On the
islands, in the mountains, in major resorts and larger cities it's
usually possible to rent a bike, but generally facilities for this are
few and far between. In the UK, the Cyclists' Touring Club (Cotterell
House, 69 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey GU7 3HS; tel 01483/417 217) can
provide members with advice and help on planning a tour.
An alternative is to tour by motorbike , though again there are
relatively few places to rent one. Mopeds and scooters , on the other
hand, are relatively easy to find: everyone in Italy, from kids to
grannies, rides one of these, and, although they're not really built for
any kind of long-distance travel, for shooting around towns and islands
they're ideal. We've detailed outlets in the text; roughly speaking you
should expect to pay up to £50,000/25.82 a day for a machine. Crash
helmets are compulsory, though in the south at least it's a law that
seems to be largely ignored.
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