lerici
 
 
 
East of La Spezia, you'll pass several kilometres of dockyards, foundries and thriving heavy industry; the sprawl is eventually brought up short at the boundary of a protected nature reserve which covers the southern half of the gulf shore.

First of the string of small resorts here is SAN TERENZO , marked by its prominent castle. There's a good sandy beach and a choice of accommodation but, predictably, most of the hotels will insist on full- or half-pension in high season. The best deals are, strangely enough, right on the seafront, at the Nettuno , Via Mantegazza 1 (tel 0187.971.093; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48) and the Trieste , a few doors down at no. 13 (tel 0187.970.610; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48), alongside which is the Villa Magni , where Shelley spent some productive months in 1822, before setting off to meet Leigh Hunt at Livorno, "full of spirits and joy", according to Mary Shelley's account. On the way back, his boat, the Ariel , went down near Viareggio, and Shelley drowned, aged thirty. Plans to turn the house into a multimedia Museo P.B. Shelley are well under way.

About 2km, or a thirty-minute walk, south of San Terenzo lies LÉRICI , an upwardly mobile resort of garden villas, seafront bars, trattorias and gift shops. Piazza Garibaldi, behind the marina, acts as the bus station. The tourist office is on the seafront north of Piazza Garibaldi, at Via Biaggini 6 (Tues-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm, Sun 9.30am-12.30pm; tel 0187.967.346, www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it ), and has details of the regular boats across to Portovénere. The circuitous route up to the Pisan-built castle from Piazza Garibaldi passes through Via del Ghetto , the old Jewish quarter once populated by Livornese merchants, and up the steep Salita Arpara , derived from a medieval word meaning "the place where hawks nest". At the top, the castle (Mon & Wed-Sun 9am-1pm & 3-7pm; L2000/¬1.03) has fabulous views from the highest terrace right across to Portovénere and the three islands and back towards La Spezia. Inside, apart from a Gothic chapel, much of the interior is given over to a museum of geopaleontology, documenting prehistoric dinosaur life in the area.

Lérici's two most pleasant hotels are near the tourist office: the Shelley & Delle Palme is at Via Biaggini 5 (tel 0187.968.204, fax 0187.964.271; L150,000-200,000/¬77.47-103.29) and the Byron is at no. 19 (tel 0187.967.104, fax 0187.967.409, www.cdh.it/hb ; L120,000-150,000/¬61.98-77.47); both have dreamy sea views from balconied rooms. The sole inexpensive option is the modern Del Golfo , inland at Via Gerini 37 (tel 0187.967.400, fax 0187.965.733; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48). For eating , the outdoor pizzerias that line Lérici's harbour provide an attractive setting as the sun goes down. Amongst many are the popular Il Giogo , Via Petriccioli 44 (closed Mon), where you can indulge in pizzas, interesting seafood and home-made desserts; and the elegant La Piccola Oasi , Via Cavour 60 (closed Tues), which offers a simple set menu.