locri and gerace
 
 
 
The most famous classical site on this coast, Locri Epizefiri (daily 9am-1hr before sunset; free), is located some 3km beyond the resort town of LOCRI . Founded at some time in the seventh century BC, the city of Locris was responsible for the first written code of law throughout the Hellenic world. Its moment of glory came in the second half of the sixth century when, supposedly assisted by Castor and Pollux, 10,000 Locrians defeated 130,000 Crotonians on the banks of the River Sagra, 25km north. Founding colonies and gathering fame in the spheres of horse rearing and music, the city was an ally of Syracuse but eventually declined during Roman times. The walls of the city, traces of which can still be seen, measured some five miles in circumference, and the excavations within are now interspersed over a wide area among farms and orchards. Your own transport would be useful for some of the more far-flung features, though the most interesting can be visited on foot without too much effort, including a fifth-century-BC Ionic temple, a Roman necropolis and a well-preserved Graeco-Roman theatre. In any case make a stop at the museum (daily except first & third Mon of month; 9am-8pm; L4000/2.07) to consult the plan of the site, and examine the most recent finds, including a good collection of pinakes , or votive ceramics - though some of the best items have been appropriated by the Museo Nazionale at Reggio.

After the Saracens devastated Locris in the seventh century AD, the survivors fled inland to found GERACE , on an impregnable site that was later occupied and strengthened by the Normans. At the end of a steep and tortuous road 10km up from modern Locri, its ruined castle stands at one end of the town on a sheer cliff; it's usually accessible, though officially the site is out of bounds due to the very precarious state of the paths and walls. Easier to visit is the Duomo (daily: April-July 9.30am-1pm & 8pm; Aug 9.30am-1pm & 3-9pm; Sept & Oct 9.30am-1pm & 3-7pm; Nov-March 9.30am-1pm & 3-6pm;), founded in 1045 by Robert Guiscard, enlarged by Frederick II in 1222 and today still the biggest church in Calabria. Its simple and well-preserved interior has twenty columns of granite and marble, each different and with various capitals; the one on the right nearest the altar in verde antico changes tone according to the weather. The Treasury below (L2000/1.03), which you pass on the way up to the nave, contains religious knick-knacks. Two other churches from the same period that are worth a look are San Francesco and San Giovanello , at the end of Via Caduti sul Lavoro (to the left of the duomo's main entrance), both showing a nice mix of Norman, Byzantine and Saracenic influences. They are usually closed: ask at the nearby tabacchi about access.