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malcesine |
| Backed by the slopes of Monte Baldo and blessed with the same
windsurfer-friendly winds as Torbole, MALCESINE , 14km further south,
has been inundated with British and German package tourists in the last
few years and the crowds temper much of the appeal of what is left of
the old town. The main sight is a thirteenth-century turreted Castello (daily:
summer 9.30am-6.30pm; winter 10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm; L6000/¬3.10), built,
like Sirmione's, by the Scaligeri family. Goethe was imprisoned here
briefly in 1786, having been arrested on suspicion of being a spy - he'd
been caught making sketches of the lake castle's towers. In 1439, the
warships of the Venetian fleet were transported over the 320-metre-high
San Giovannia pass to Malcesina by means of filling in the small River
Cameras with earth and hauling the ships uphill over tree-trunk rollers,
Fitzcarraldo -style. They went on to rule the nearby towns of Lazise and
Peschiera, and eventually Brescia , but by May 1509 they lost their hard-won
territory after battles with the army commanded by Louis XII of France.
For more active pursuits you need to head up Monte Baldo. Although there are well-marked trails up the mountain, you can save energy by taking a funicular (daily: April-Oct every thirty minutes 8am-6pm; L20,000/¬10.33 return-trip, L24,000/¬12.39 with bike), but be prepared for long queues in summer. If you want to mountain bike, there are wheels for hire at G. Furioli in Piazza Matteotti, who even transport the bikes to the top, from where you can make a panoramic descent; you can also take your own bike up on one of the four trips especially for bikes, three in the morning and one at lunchtime. The tourist office at Via Capitanato 6-8 (June-Oct Mon-Sat 9am-1pm & 3-7pm, Sun 9am-1pm; Nov-May closed Sun; tel 045.740.0044, fax 045.740.1633), north along the lake from the port, has maps of signposted walks in the hills behind. Most hotels in Malcesine get swallowed up by package companies, so the choice is limited. The Catullo , in Via Priori 11 (tel 045.740.0352; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), has a pool and is very reasonable, as is the Primavera on Via Gardesana (tel 045.740.0091; up to L60,000/¬30.99). Another good deal is Gardesana on the main road through town and within walking distance of the bus station (tel 045.740.0121; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48), though you'll need to book months in advance for July and August. Many of Malcesine's restaurants are aimed at the town's German visitors: the Speck Stube , Via Molina 1, is one of the better of the Teutonic-style eateries; or else try the more Italian Gondoliere on Piazza Matteotti - the seafood is particularly recommended. |