manfredonia

 
 
 
By Puglian standards, MANFREDONIA is a new town, a mere 600 years old, founded - as the name suggests - by Manfred, illegitimate son of Frederick II. The Austrians struck the first blow of World War I on Italian soil here by bombing the town's station in 1915, but this is really Manfredonia's only claim to fame. The town is seen more as the gateway to the Gargano promontory, and most people pass quickly through. Still, what the town lacks in historical sights is more than made up for by its sandy beaches, which stretch for miles down the coast.

The Castello , on Corso Manfredi, was started by Manfred and extended by the Angevins. Its huge bastions were added in 1607 by the Spanish to stave off a Turkish attack: they failed to do so, the Turks landing in 1620, ravaging the hapless inhabitants and destroying much of the town - though most of the protective walls still survive. The castle now houses the Museo Nazionale (daily except first and last Mon of the month: summer 8.30am-7.30pm & Sat 8-11pm; winter 8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm; L4000/¬2.06), largely devoted to Daunic finds from the seventh and sixth centuries BC, particularly several stone stelae, thought to be tombstones, richly carved with images of armoured warriors, female figures and scenes from daily life.

SIPONTO , 3km south down the coast from Manfredonia, was once a thriving medieval port. But constant malarial attacks and damaging earthquakes have left it with little beyond its good sandy beaches to draw you - all no more than twenty minutes' walk or a short bus ride from Manfredonia's train station. They're signposted from town and in August you can expect them to be packed to the gills.