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marsala and mazara del vallo |
| Another section of the western rail loop runs south from Trápani
down the coast, pretty much within sight of the sea all the way, trains
ploughing across the cultivated plain, past white, squat houses and
distant burned hills. The region flaunts its tangible non-Greek heritage
even more in MARSALA , 10km on, which takes its name from the Arabic
Marsah-el-Allah, the port of Allah. Once the main Saracenic base in
Sicily, since the late eighteenth century Marsala has been better known
for the dessert wine that carries its name, something every bar and
restaurant will sell you. The centre of Marsala is extremely attractive, a clean sixteenth-century layout that's free of traffic and littered with high, ageing buildings and arcaded courtyards. But - pleasant as the town is - save your energy for two excellent museums. The most central, behind the cathedral at Via Garraffa 57, is the Museo degli Arazzi (Tues-Sun 9am-1pm & 4-6pm; L2000/¬1.03), whose sole display is a series of eight enormous hand-stitched wool and silk tapestries depicting the capture of Jerusalem - sixteenth century and beautifully rich, in burnished red, gold and green. Afterwards, walk out to the cape (follow the main Via XI Maggio to Piazza della Vittoria and bear left towards the water); one of the stone-vaulted warehouses that line the promenade holds the equally impressive Museo Marsala (daily 9am-1.30pm, plus Thurs-Sat and alternate Sun 4-7.30pm; L4000/¬2.07). An archeological museum of quality, its major exhibit is a reconstructed Punic warship once rowed by 68 oarsmen, probably sunk during the First Punic War, and rediscovered in 1971. Other bits and pieces on display are from the excavated site (mostly Roman) of Lilybaeum. If you want a meal in Marsala, head for the wood-panelled Trattoria Garibaldi at Piazza Addolorata 5 (closed Mon) for good local dishes. Half an hour further on, MAZARA DEL VALLO is Sicily's most important fishing port and a place of equal distinction for the Arabs and Normans who dominated the island a thousand years ago. The first Saracen gain in Sicily, Mazara was Arabic for 250 years until captured by Count Roger in 1075: the island's first Norman parliament met in the town 22 years later, and a relic of that period is the tiny pink-domed Norman chapel of San Nicolň , on the edge of the harbour. North Africans crew the colourful fishing boats that block the harbour and river, the old city kasbah once more houses a Tunisian community. Wandering around the harbour area is the most rewarding thing to do in Mazara, although you can spend an enjoyable hour or so as well in the remodelled Norman Duomo , which shelters some Roman and Byzantine remains, and poking around the Museo Civico (Mon-Fri 9am-1.30pm, plus Tues & Thurs 4-6pm; free) in Piazza del Plebiscito, just off Mazara's main square. Hotel accommodation includes the dauntingly large but very comfortable Hopps Hotel , at Via G. Hopps 29 (tel 0923.946.133; L150,000-200,000/¬77.47-103.29), at the eastern end of the Lungomare Mazzini. If you're budgeting, choose the Kristallo (tel 0923.932.688; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), at Via Valeria 36, not far from the station off Corso Armando Diaz. A good restaurant for regional dishes in the town is La Béttola at Corso Diaz 20, opposite the train station (closed Sun). |