molfetta

 
 
 
The last stop worth making on this stretch of coast is at MOLFETTA , a working port, unashamedly non-touristy and all the better for it, with a twelfth-century Duomo that's a mishmash of styles from the Romanesque and Byzantine eras and a tiny alleywayed old centre - once an island - that's home to one of the biggest fishing fleets on the southern Adriatic. There are no beaches as such, but it's a busy, evocative place, its waterfront active with visiting ships and thronged by an evening passeggiata that sweeps down to the docks to watch the gorgeous sunsets over the Adriatic. You probably won't want to stay, but if you do there's one central hotel , the Tritone on Via Piave 11 (tel 080.397.1069; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98). If you feel like something to eat try the Bistrot , at Corso Dante 33 (closed Wed) or for snacks the Al Duomo , next to the duomo, has outdoor tables, ideal for watching Molfetta amble by