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montalcino |
| MONTALCINO is another classic Tuscan hill-town, 20km west of Pienza.
Set within a full circuit of walls and watched over by a rocca , it
looks tremendous from below - and from above, the surrounding
countryside strewn with vineyards, orchards and olive groves is equally
impressive. Montalcino produces a top-notch DOCG wine , Brunello di
Montalcino, reckoned by many to be the finest in Italy, and is a quiet
place, affluent in an unshowy way from its tourist trade. For a time in
the fifteenth century, though, the town was of great symbolic importance:
it was the last of the Sienese comune to hold out against the Medici,
the French and the Spanish after Siena itself had capitulated. This role
is acknowledged at the Siena Palio, where the Montalcino contingent -
under its medieval banner proclaiming "The Republic of Siena in
Montalcino" - takes pride of place. The main street, Via Mazzini, leads from Piazza Cavour at the north end of town to the Piazza del Popolo , an odd little square set beneath the elongated tower of the town hall, based in all but its dimensions on that of Siena. An elegant double loggia occupies another side with, opposite, a wonderful and rather Germanic nineteenth-century café, the Fiaschetteria Italiana , that is very much the heart of town life. Steps beside the café lead up to the excellent Museo Civico e Diocesano (Tues-Sun: April-Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-March 10am-1pm & 2-6pm; Jan-March closes 5pm; L8000/¬4.13; joint ticket including Rocca ramparts L10,000/¬5.16). The quality of the art on show is out of all proportion to the size of the town, and takes in a wealth of Sienese painting and early sculpture. Following Via Ricasoli south brings you to the Rocca fortress (daily 9am-7.30pm; winter closes 6pm). Impressively complete, this encloses a public park and plush enoteca . You can also get access to the ramparts from here (L4000/¬2.06, or joint ticket from Museo Civico L10,000/¬5.16). Regular buses arrive from Buonconvento and Siena, most of which pass first through Torrenieri , from where connections head to Pienza and Montepulciano, and to Arcidosso and Abbadia San Salvatore. Montalcino's bus stop is at the north end of town in Piazza Cavour. The tiny Pro Loco tourist office is near the Piazza del Popolo at Costa del Municipio 8 (Tues-Sun: May-Sept 10am-1pm & 2-5.45pm; Oct-April 10am-1pm & 3-5pm; tel 0577.849.331, www.digitamiata.com/promontalcino ). Hotels are uninspiring, with the Giardino , Via Cavour 2 (tel & fax 0577.848.257; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98) prone to street noise; and the Giglio , Via Saloni 49 (tel & fax 0577.848.167; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), generically renovated. Private rooms are a better bet: try Locatelli Maria Pia , Via Spagni 3 (tel 0577.847.150; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48). The best restaurant is Cucina di Edgardo , Via Saloni 21 (tel 0577.848.232; closed Wed), swanky and a tad pretentious; Grappolo Blu , on Via Scale di Moglio off Via Mazzini (tel 0577.847.150; closed Fri), is more down-to-earth. Best pizza in town is at San Giorgio on Via Saloni (closed Mon), while La Griglieria del Corso , Via Matteotti 19 (closed Mon) has a chill cabinet full of salads and meats to eat in or take out, plus wood-fired pizzas and fresh pasta. Circolo Arci is a pleasant bar-café in an arcaded courtyard opposite the Museo Civico. |