nus

 
NUS , further up the main valley from Chatillon, is a small, pretty village, overlooked by a ruined castle, that makes a good base for the Castello di Fénis 2km away (daily: March-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Feb 10am-5pm; L6000/3.10). Backed by wooded hills and encircled by two rows of turreted walls, the castle is a fairy-tale cluster of towers decorated with scalloped arcades. These defences were primarily aesthetic, with the real job of protecting the valley being left to the less prettified fortresses of nearby Nus and Quart, while the Fénis branch of the Challant counts concentrated on refining their living quarters with fine Gothic frescoes. The best of these is in the courtyard, above the elaborate twin staircase that leads to the upper storeys. A courtly St George rescues a damsel in distress from the clutches of a tremendous dragon, overlooked by a tribe of protective saints brandishing moral statements on curling scrolls.

There's a hotel in Fénis - La Chatelaine (tel 0165.764.264; up to L60,000/30.99), in localitŕ Chez Sapin, open year-round. However, as Nus has a train station and is close to the main road for buses, you may find it more convenient to sleep there: the Florian at Via Risorgimento 3 (tel 0165.767.968; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48), has clean and comfortable doubles and is also open all year.