orbetello
 
ORBETELLO is an unassuming place, graced with palm trees, the pastel-coloured remnants of its Spanish walls, and a lively passeggiata each evening along its main street, Corso Italia. It was probably Etruria's leading port, though little evidence of an ancient past remains: the sixteenth-century Spanish fortifications are the town's conspicuous feature. The train station is 4km east at Orbetello Scalo. Buses originating in Rome or Grosseto run from Orbetello station to the bus stops near the tourist office at Piazza della Repubblica 1 (daily: July & Aug 10am-12.30pm & 5-9pm; April-June, Sept & Oct 10am-12.30pm & 4-8pm; tel 0564.861.226). Choice hotel is the simple, friendly and very central Piccolo Parigi , Corso Italia 169 (tel 0564.867.233, fax 0564.867.211; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98). Most of the area's thirteen campsites are on and around the lagoon; plump for the Feniglia (tel 0564.831.090, fax 0564.867.175; April to mid-Oct), the only site on the southern Tombolo di Feniglia. Orbetello's best restaurant for a treat is the Osteria del Lupacante , Corso Italia 103 (closed Tues), but less pricey options include the Cantuccio , Via Mentana 7 (closed Mon), which has a small garden in summer.

Roads from Orbetello head north and south around the base of Monte Argentario. On the south side is intimate PORTO ERCOLE , with an attractive old quarter and a fishing-village atmosphere. Though founded by the Romans, its chief historical monuments are two Spanish fortresses , facing each other across the harbour. At the entrance to the old town, a plaque on the stone gate commemorates the painter Caravaggio , who in 1610 keeled over with sunstroke on a beach nearby and died of a fever; he was buried in the parish church of Sant'Erasmo. From the village, you can easily walk across the Tombolo di Feniglia, which is barred to traffic and is a prime spot for birdwatching over the lagoon. Finest restaurant for fish and seafood is the classy Gambero Rosso , Lungomare Andrea Doria (tel 0564.832.650; closed Wed). On the north side of the Argentario is PORTO SANTO STEFANO , more popular and developed than its twin. You'll probably stay only as long as it takes to get a ferry to the island of Giglio .