ostuni
 
OSTUNI is one of the most stunning small towns of southern Italy. Situated on three hills at the southernmost edge of Le Murge, and an important Greco-Roman city in the first century AD, its old centre spreads across the highest of the hills, a gleaming white splash of sun-bleached streets and cobbled alleyways, dominating the plains below. The maze of well-preserved, winding streets makes for a fascinating amble (the evening passeggiata is also well worth sticking around for, especially at the weekend), and there are some exceptional views - particularly from Largo Castello over the woods to the north. Bits of cavorting Baroque twist out of unexpected places, including an ornamented eighteenth-century obelisk, 21m high, dedicated to St Oronzo, which stands in Piazza della Libertà (aka Piazza St Oronzo) on the southern edge of the old town. The Chiesa delle Monacelle , on the main drag from the upper town to the main piazza, has displays on prehistory (daily 9am-1pm & 4.30-10.30pm; winter closes 7.30pm; L3000/1.55), the highlight of which is "Delia", the skeleton of a pregnant young woman found in a crouched position, her bones decorated before burial. You'll find the tourist office on Corso Mazzini in the old town during the summer (Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm & 6-9pm, Sat & Sun 6-9pm; tel 0831.301.268), and at Via Dottor V. Continelli 47 in the new town during the rest of the year (Mon-Fri 8am-2pm & 5-7pm; tel 0831.303.775).

Ostuni's proximity to a popular sandy coastline, 7km away, makes budget accommodation tricky to find. The tourist office can help with private rooms in town, or you can go for one of two unremarkable but cheap, central hotels: the Hotel Orchidea Nera on Via Mazzini 118 (tel 0831.301.366; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48), or the Tre Torri , at Via Vittorio Emanuele 298 (tel 0831.331.114; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98). If the budget can stand it, you could always opt for the beautiful, antique-filled four-star hotel Al Castello Marchesale , Via Scipione Petrarolo 7 (tel 0831.305.925; L200,000-250,000/103.29-129.11). An alternative is to stay out of town in a farmhouse B&B: Masseria La Salìnola (tel 0831.330.683, www.agriturism.com/Salinola ; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98) has doubles and small apartments on a traditional estate surrounded by olive groves, with a swimming pool (in high season) and bikes. It's quite tricky to find: in town, look out for the neon sign of Bar Manhattan on the ring road, turn right at the roundabout, then head for San Michele; after 1.7km you'll see the Masseria on your left. Other agriturismo places are Masseria Asciano (tel 0831.330.712, www.italiainrete.net/asciano ; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48) a traditional white house with guest rooms on an olive-oil producing estate, 3km out of Ostuni on the Torre Pozzella road; and Masseria Lamacavallo (tel 0831.330.703, www.stelfair.com/ostuni/lamacavallo ; L150,000-200,000/77.47-103.29) on the same road to Torre Pozzella, 4km from Ostuni at Contrada Lamacavallo with apartments with kitchenettes in the farmhouse.

There are a number of excellent restaurants in Ostuni: try Osteria del Tempo Perso , at Via Tanzarella 47 (closed all day Mon & lunchtimes except Sun; reservations advised, tel 0831.303.320), for good-value fave e cicoria (broad beans with chicory), orecchiette con cime di rapa (pasta with turnip tops) and grilled meat. Vecchia Ostuni, Largo Lanza 9, just off Piazza della Libertà, is another good choice with a vast array of antipasti including deep-fried courgette flowers, snails in a piquant tomato sauce, twists of mozzarella, and pickled peppers. At the top of the town, Antiche Pietanze , on Via P Vincenti is a small place up a set of narrow whitewashed steps offering regional food at moderate prices (the set menu is good value). On summer Saturdays Ostuni buzzes when hordes of people (mostly young) drive in from the countryside around, meet up with their friends, pack out the bars and cafés and listen to the music coming from the sound system on Piazza della Libertà; Hampton's Pub facing this main square is the most glamorous of the chill-out zones. For snacks , try the particularly good cookies, bread, and focacce with onion that come out of Lu Furne at Via Petrarolo 28, at Porta Nova.

Of the coastal resorts accessible from Ostuni, there's more happening at Ostuni Villanova than Ostuni Marina: if you want to stay here, go for the modern Baia del Re at Villanova (tel 0831.970.144; L150,000-200,000/77.47-103.29).