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porto azzurro and capoliveri |
| The resort of PORTO AZZURRO was heavily fortified by Philip III of
Spain in 1603. Today his fortress is the island's prison; a walk round
the outer ramparts brings you to a shop selling crafts made by the
inmates. The town's small, pretty old quarter, closed to traffic,
centres on bustling Via d'Alarcon . Choice of the lacklustre hotels is
Belmare , Banchina IV Novembre 21 (tel 0564.95.012, fax 0565.958.245,
belmare@ elbalink.it ; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98). The Arrighi
campsite north of town at Barbarossa (tel 0565.95.568, fax 0565.957.822;
April-Nov) gives straight onto the beach. Busy town restaurants serve
identikit pasta-based nosh, including the friendly Lo Scoglio , Via
Cavour 15 (closed Wed in winter). All'Arco Antico on Via d'Alarcon has
snacks and pizzas from L7000/¬3.61. Plenty of places rent bikes , boats
and scooters, including BW's, Via Provinciale 10 (tel 0565.920.196,
www.bwsracing.it ). Motorboats shuttle across the bay to the sandy beach
at Naregno CAPOLIVERI , 3.5km southwest of Porto Azzurro and overlooked by Monte Calamita, is the best of the towns on Elba's eastern fringe, a prosperous inland centre whose close-knit lanes have made few concessions to tourism. Capoliveri makes an ideal base for visits south to the fine beaches at Morcone, Pareti and Innamorata, but accommodation is limited: try at the comfortable two-star Villa Miramare in Pareti (tel & fax 0565.968.673; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98). The Sugar Reef bar and music venue 1km south of Capoliveri at La Trappola (tel 0336.381.035, www.sugar-reef.com ) feeds the town's nightlife image, with dance parties all summer long (daily 11pm-5am). In summer, municipal minibuses run hourly between Capoliveri and nearby beach towns until 1am. |