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sperlonga |
| The coast south of Terracina is probably Lazio's prettiest stretch,
the cliff punctured by tiny beaches signposted enticingly from the road.
SPERLONGA , built high on a rocky promontory, is a fashionable spot
locally, its whitewashed houses and narrow streets more Greek in feel
than Italian, and sadly given over entirely to tourists during summer (though
cars are not allowed into the centre). There are some excellent
restaurants specializing in seafood along Via Cristoforo; a basic,
modern hotel , the Grazie at Via M. A. Colonna 110 (tel 0771.54.223;
L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98); and a few pricey pensioni , though these
are often full and you might find it easier to hole up in Terracina and
come to Sperlonga for the day, taking advantage of the half-hourly
buses. Another possibility is the many rooms and apartments for rent at
the height of the season; ask at the local information office (Thurs-Tues
9am-1pm; tel 0771.54.796). The beach is certainly worth stopping for: a
lengthy strand to the south with the town as backdrop and abundant space.
Between Sperlonga and Gaeta the coast steepens markedly, with yet more appealing beaches and, if you're camping, any number of handy campsites. A couple of kilometres from Sperlonga, there's a small museum and the remains of the Villa of Tiberius (daily: summer 9am-9pm; winter 9am-4pm; L4000/¬2.07) - worth a stop if you've got your own transport. The house was built around a large ornamental pool which extends into a large grotto in the cliff face. The museum (same hours and ticket as villa) holds finds from the villa, centrepiece of which is a large complex group of statues depicting scenes from Homer's Odyssey in the style of the Vatican's Laocoon , possibly by the same sculptors. |