torbole
 
TORBOLE , at the top of the lake, played an important role in the fifteenth-century war between the Viscontis and the Venetians, when a fleet of warships was dragged overland here and launched into the lake. Nowadays it's still the water that dominates, since Torbole's main diversions are sailing and windsurfing, and the place has a fresh feeling, something added to by the suntanned faces you'll encounter in the many bars and fast-food joints. If you're a sports freak, this is a great place to stay, with plenty of brisk young things in dazzling lycra whizzing around on rollerblades or mountain bikes, and a more buzzing café life than in other resorts around the lake. Windsurfing enthusiasts come here from all over Europe, and it's obvious why once you see the speed at which they skim across the water when the afternoon wind gets up. It's also a good place for beginners, and in the mornings, when the wind is gentler, the water is full of wobbling novices attempting to circle their instructors.

The tourist office (April & May Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 3-6.15pm; June-Oct Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm, Sun 10am-noon & 4-6.30pm; Nov-March 9am-noon & 2.30-5.15pm; tel 0464.505.177, www.torbole.com ) is conveniently located on the lakefront between the jetty and the centre; it has a huge range of information on different courses, places to rent bikes and boards and routes for every imaginable sport. If it's closed, there is a freephone service outside to a substantial number of the hotels (phone numbers are listed on a board). The Casa Nataly , on Piazza Alpini (tel 0464.505.341; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48), is just off the main road on the edge of town and also rents apartments by the week; the Casa Romani (tel 0464.505.113; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48) charges about the same and is in a handy location just off the main road directly opposite the ferry jetty; it has two swimming pools and some rooms with use of a kitchen. A slightly more upmarket alternative is Casa Morandi , on Via Matteoti (tel 0464.505.239; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48), a spick-and-span place with old-fashioned furnishings and a café-restaurant next door, usefully positioned on a main road above town right next to a bus stop. Monte Baldo , at the heart of things on Lungolago Verona (tel 0464.505.121; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), overlooking the port, is another good bet.