vernazza

 
A few headlands east of Monterosso al Mare is VERNAZZA , loveliest of the five villages, throwing a protective arm around the only natural harbour on this rocky coast. The narrow lanes with their tall, colourful houses are typical of the area, and the little cramped village is overlooked by stout medieval bastions and a watchtower, built by the Genoese after they'd destroyed the previous castle in 1182 to punish the locals for piracy. Down beside the main piazza overlooking the sea is the Gothic church of Santa Margherita di Antiochia , with an elegant octagonal campanile.

There are two hotels : plain, bathless rooms in the Barbara , Piazza Marconi 30 (tel & fax 0187.812.398; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48) occupy the top floor of one of the oldest buildings in the village, overlooking the main square beside the harbour, while the friendly Sorriso , further up into the village at Via Gavino 4 (tel 0187.812.224; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98) has both en suite and bathless options. A handful of places offer rooms - in summer, ask at the Monterosso tourist office in advance for details, since you're likely to find them all full if you turn up without a booking. Poor-value restaurants ring the main Piazza Marconi; the Sorriso hotel is better value, and Osteria Il Baretto , Via Roma 31 (tel 0187.812.381; no closing day) may lack a sea view but has excellent antipasti di mare in recompense. Bar Marlin , Via Roma 43, has Internet access. Also on Via Roma you'll spot a sales outlet of the Cooperativa Agricola Cinque Terre , where you can sample the local wines.