| The north is "discovered" Italy. The regions of Piemonte and
Lombardy , in the northwest, make up the richest and most cosmopolitan
part of the country, and the two main centres, Turin and Milan, are its
wealthiest large cities. In their southern reaches, these regions are
flat and scenically dull, especially Lombardy, but in the north the
presence of the Alps shapes the character of each: skiing and hiking are
prime activities, and the lakes and mountains of Lombardy are time-honoured
tourist territory. Liguria , the small coastal province to the south,
has long been known as the "Italian Riviera" and is accordingly crowded
with sun-seeking holiday-makers for much of the summer season.
Nonetheless it's a beautiful stretch of coast, and its capital, Genoa,
is a bustling port with a long seafaring tradition.
Much of the most dramatic mountain scenery lies within the smaller
northern regions. In the far northwest, the tiny bilingual region of
Valle d'Aosta is home to some of the country's most frequented ski
resorts, and is bordered by the tallest of the Alps - the Matterhorn and
Mont Blanc. Moving east, Trentino-Alto Adige , another bilingual region,
and one in which the national boundary is especially blurred, marks the
beginning of the Dolomites mountain range, where Italy's largest
national park, the Stelvio, lies amid some of the country's most
memorable landscapes.
The Dolomites stretch into the northeastern regions of the Veneto and
Friuli-Venezia Giulia . However here the main focus of interest is, of
course, Venice; a unique city, and every bit as beautiful as its
reputation would suggest (although this means you won't be alone in
appreciating it). If the crowds are too much, there's also the arc of
historic towns outside the city - Verona, Padua and Vicenza, all centres
of interest in their own right, although rather overshadowed by their
illustrious neighbour. To the south, the region of Emilia-Romagna has
been at the heart of Italy's postwar industrial boom and has a standard
of living on a par with Piemonte and Lombardy, although it's also a
traditional stronghold of the Italian Left. Its coast is popular among
Italians, and Rimini is about Italy's brashest, tackiest (and trendiest)
seaside resort, with a high reputation on the clubbing scene. You may do
better to ignore the beaches altogether, however, and concentrate on the
ancient centres of Ravenna, Ferrara, Parma and the regional capital of
Bologna, one of Italy's liveliest, most historic but least appreciated
cities.
Central Italy represents perhaps the most commonly perceived image of
the country, and Tuscany , with its classic rolling countryside and the
art-packed towns of Florence, Pisa and Siena, to name only the three
best-known centres, is one of its most visited regions. Neighbouring
Umbria is similar in all but its tourist numbers, though it gets busier
every year, as visitors flock into towns such as Perugia, Spoleto and
Assisi. Further east still, Marche may in time go the same way, but for
the moment is comparatively untouched, its highlights being the ancient
towns of Urbino and Áscoli Piceno. South of Marche, the hills begin to
pucker into mountains in the twin regions of Abruzzo and Molise ,
Italy's first really remote area if you're travelling north to south,
centring on the country's highest peak - the Gran Sasso d'Italia. Molise,
particularly, is a taster of the south, as is Lazio to the west, in part
a poor and sometimes desolate region whose often rugged landscapes
contrast with the more manicured beauty of the other central regions.
Lazio's real focal point, though, is Rome , Italy's capital and the one
city in the country which owes allegiance neither to the north or south,
its people proudly aloof from the rest of the country's squabbles. Rome
is a tremendous city quite unlike any other, and in terms of historical
sights outstrips everywhere else in the country by a long way.
The south proper begins south of Rome, with the region of Campania ,
which is as far as many tourists get. Naples is a petulant,
unforgettable city, the spiritual heart of the Italian south, and on
hand nearby are some of Italy's finest ancient sites in Pompeii and
Herculaneum, not to mention the country's most spectacular stretch of
coast around Amalfi. Basilicata and Calabria , which make up the instep
and toe of Italy's boot, are harder territory but still rewarding, the
emphasis less on art, more on the landscape and quiet, unspoilt
coastlines. Puglia , also in the "heel" of Italy, has underrated
pleasures, notably the landscape of its Gargano peninsula, the souk-like
quality of its capital Bari, and the Baroque glories of Lecce in the far
south. As regards Sicily , the island is really a law unto itself, a
wide mixture of attractions ranging from some of the finest preserved
Hellenistic treasures in Europe, to a couple of Italy's fanciest beach
resorts in Taormina and Cefalù, not to mention some gorgeous upland
scenery. Come this far south and you're closer to Africa than Milan, and
it shows, in the climate, the architecture and the cooking - with
couscous featuring on many menus in the west of the island. Sardinia ,
too, feels far removed from the Italian mainland, especially in its
relatively undiscovered interior, although you may be content to explore
its fine beaches, which are among Italy's best.
Climate: when to go
Italy's climate is one of the most hospitable in the world, with a
general pattern of warm, dry summers and mild winters. There are,
however, marked regional variations, ranging from the more temperate
northern part of the country to the firmly Mediterranean south. Summers
are hot and dry along the coastal areas, especially as you move south,
cool in the major mountain areas - the Alps and Apennines. Winters are
mild in the south of the country, Rome and below, but in the north they
can be at least as cold as anywhere in the northern hemisphere,
sometimes worse, especially across the plains of Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna,
which can be very inhospitable indeed in January.
As for when to go , if you're planning to visit fairly touristed areas,
especially beach resorts, avoid July and August, when the weather can be
too hot and the crowds at their most congested. August is when the
Italians go on holiday so expect the crush to be especially bad in the
resorts and the scene in the major historic cities - Rome, Florence,
Venice - to be slightly artificial as the only people around are fellow
tourists. The nicest time to visit, in terms of the weather and lack of
crowds, is April to late June, or September and October. If you're
planning to swim, however, bear in mind that only the south of the
country may be warm enough outside the May to September period.
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